Reply To: Eddie’s BMW R80 / Velorex 562 build
- Location: Wellington
- Bike: BMW Supertanker, R80 & Velorex Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
Good lord, time flies. Time to bring this back up to date. The sidecar sat neglected for a few months while I concentrated on another bike. But back into focus now.
FLOAT BOWL RETAINING LEASH:
After losing a carb float bowl on the Hinakura / Admirals Rd loop, I decided I needed some way of retaining them. It’s only the 2nd time in 26 years of riding BMWs I’ve lost one, but the consequences of doing that in the wrong time / place could be dire, either:
– The float bowl getting damaged or destroyed by following traffic, or;
– Total loss.
Not a total disaster – if either happened, I could tie the float up, so that gas didn’t go to that carb, & limp home on one carb & one cylinder. But if I was on a longer trip… I’d rather mitigate the risk now.
The float bowls are held on with a wire retaining clip. This is normally positively located on the float bowl by some indents at the bottom of the float bowl – but because these carbs are high mileage, the indents have worn.
The most recent incident was caused when the float bowl clip was caught by the bottom buckle on my boots.
I have made up some leashes, to stop the float bowls falling completely away from the bike. This was based on similar leashes made up by Solo Lobo (Advrider), which were in turn based on leashes that used to be commercially available elsewhere.
– Some light stainless wire, purchased at $2.00/m from a Marine Shop;
– Electrical eyelets
– Electrical wiring joiners
– Stainless screws
– Heat shrink
– A 3.00mm nail to punch out the blanking cap in the float bowl
I removed the float bowl, & carefully drilled a (3.00mm) hole at the bottom into the capped portion at the side of the bowl. The other side of the float bowl is open, & is used for the enricher circuit – you definitely don’t want to bugger that up. I used the nail to tap out the steel cap.
I crimped the eyelet onto the stainless wire, soldered the crimp to make that more secure, & put some heat shrink over that to tidy it a little. I then cut the wire at 110mm, & threaded the end thru the hole at the bottom of the float bowl & out the top. I crimped 1/2 of the joiner onto that, & soldered this & then applied more heat shrink so that wouldn’t rattle.
Then pulled the joiner to the bottom of the bore, put a little silicon into the hole to keep the water out, & pushed the cap back in place at the top.
Finally, I drilled out the blank screw holes on the carb, to the depth of the screws, & screwed the eyelet to the carb.
MAINTENANCE 27th Aug ’16- 27,650kms:
I’d heard some off noises from the bike, metal on metal drumming, & had some vibration from the footpegs. Went looking for engine or gearbox damage, dropped the oil to check for metal filings, all clear, after a few more days riding it appears that it’s just a baffle loose in the collector box.
– Engine & gearbox oil change.
– New clutch lock out switch. A PO had bypassed that by stuffing a loop of wire into the connector by the frame spine, & then taping it up. That bodge had moved, so you needed to be in neutral to start the bike – a bugger if the bike stalled at the lights.
– New oil pressure switch. The existing switch was a fitting for a gauge that didn’t work. So no warning if oil pressure dropped. A pain to replace because of the location right by the sidecar subframe.
– New speedo cable. The old one was scavenged off the bent bike, & was too long.
– New fuel tap. A PO had mostly stripped the threads on the old one, & that died when I went to replace the internal filter screen.
MAINTENANCE 4th Oct ’16 – 29,388 kms.
Reset the front upper mount after this slipped on an aggressive ride in the South Wairarapa.
New front 100/90 18 Trail Wing TW18 – these come as OEM rear tyres on the DR200, but aren’t aggressive enough for most farmers – so are sold off cheap. The price was right. The tyre is uni-directional & has a similar tread pattern to the 350 18 Golden Boy that was on there before. It’s slightly bigger & has a rounder profile (possibly because of size). Hopefully it has better wet grip than the Golden Boy did.
MAINTENANCE 24th Oct ’16 – 30,289 Kms:
Replaced the left switchgear with a 2nd hand unit from R Twin Works Ltd. $165 ex Germany, off a low mileage bike. SG looks almost new. Includes an on/off headlight switch, which the last one lacked.
Also just ordered another two cheap TW18 100/90 18″ tyres (new OEM off a DR200). The one I’ve not long installed on the front of the chair has much better grip than the Golden Boy, & seems to be wearing well. Quite an aggressive tread pattern when used as a front. May as well get them while they are cheap. $30 Each for these. I’ll stash them until I need replacements.
MAINTENANCE 28th Dec ’16- 31,1xx kms:
– Engine oil & filter change
– Changed the pushrod seals on the left cylinder, as this had been is leaking.
– Noted that a stud from the timing chest area has moved & has pushed against & marked the skirt of the barrel. Never seen this before. I have carefully dremelled that back
– Changed the tub wheel bearings – there was play.
Due for a new tug rear & sidecar tyre
Maintenance 06th Feb ’17:
Tightened all of the sidecar linkages, as some slop was developing. The frame is getting rusty from the commute. I’ll need to paint at some stage.
Replaced the clutch lever pivot bush – the old one (on the right) was well & truly munted.
Maintenance Sept 17 – 32,xxx kms:
– Refitted the carbs back from Gus. Setting appear perfect – running nice tan plugs
– New K60 rear tyre
– Flushed the throttle & clutch cables
– New battery 51814 Motobatt
– Registration & WoF
MAINTENANCE 14th Oct ’17, 32,450 kms:
When getting the recent WoF, some play in the front wheel was noted. I thought, ‘easy’, I’ll throw some new bearings in there. Unfortunately the bearings had spun at some stage, & the play was between the hub & bearings. The bearing actually fell out when I went to check them. The bearings themselves were fine.
JS has taken a bit more out of the the hubs, & spun up some bronze sleeves to remedy this, & to restore the interference fit. A nice tidy solution. I’ve put some new bearing in as well, well packed with additional grease, in an attempt to keep water out.
I also asked JS to make up a new front mount for the sidecar. This removes the huge bars Eddie built. The issue with prior system was it still used the universal clamp fittings, which are prone to slippage (removed in the photo as we recycled the mount into the new system – but you can see it the prior post). Whilst very robust, the bars main mounts were the engine mounts. The top mounts were u-bolts. In hard cornering you could feel that connection moving.
JS’s mount is much simpler, & leaves me room to install a top mount oil cooler at some later stage.
As an interim measure, the removal of the bar allows me to reinstall a crash-bar with a GS oil cooler mounted on that. I have the system from Rufas.
I’ve done a quick realignment post fitting the new mount – but it probably needs more attention.
Need to install the LED voltmeter I bought recently – to match the bigger one on Gus.
I’ve new front brake pads & a rear rack due via Fedex Monday. 2x new side car tyre sometime after that (GN125 cast offs – classy). But only $25 ea. Yes, I’m cheap.