September 27, 2016 at 10:15 pm #14154
I’ve decided to maintain a build thread for my 2012 DR650, either for the purposes of entertaining you with my poor life-choices or learning you from my mistakes. You choose.
History, I purchased this bike in Janurary 2016 from a good dude in Gisbourne. Immaculately maintained with only ~8000ks on the clock. I chose the DR650 as I like the dual-purpose, go anywhere nature of it and the simplicity of a air-cooled thumper, and to quote the random guy at the bike shop “It’ll be the DR and the cockroaches being the only thing left after the nuclear holocaust”. I chose the DR over the likes of the DRz400 as the DR has more of a frame, better for strapping on luggage etc.
I’m 6’6″ and usually weighing in at 100 kg, and without heaps of cash, again the DR is hard to beat.
When the DR was purchased, it was all stock, the only addition being a ventura rack.
Attachments:September 27, 2016 at 10:45 pm #14162
- 25mm zeta bar raisers.
- Renthal bars (Villopoto/ Stewart Bend)
- Barkbusters Evo Guards
- Renthal Grips
- Zeta aluminium throttle tube
These mods all happend over the course of a few months, but i’ll lump them all in together.
The first part was the zeta bar raisers, very easy to install. all in all 10-minute job and for me being a tall dude, immediately much more comfortable. the aluminium is anodized silver and looks good.
I would recommend this one for tall guys like myself. Immediately it is easier to stand up, less soreness across shoulders.
Now the bars, grips and throttle tube were all done at once.
This does get a little trickier with all the cables to keep track of and getting everything aligned properly.
the only hassles I remember were the locating tabs in the switch assemblies needed to get filed down and the aluminium throttle tube had to get machined down a little for it to move nicely in the throttle clamp? although we went a bit too far and it has a bit more play than id like. But you don’t notice it when riding.
The throttle cables and front brake had to be re-routed now that the new bars were wider and higher than factory.
The handlebars are a massive improvement: wider, higher,flatter and less of an angle on them allowing my elbows to hang out a little more naturally.
Reccomended, new bars look sick, renthal and pro-taper have a range of fits for you to try out.
Barkbusters Evo handguards
Easy to install, they look good and the aluminium bar is very solid. It has been dropped and hit rocks, trees, doorways and side mirrors and sustained very little damage.
The only problem with them is that they do interfere with the stock clutch and brake levers. as long as the levers are at a different angle to the guards, you are ok.
do it, they absorb crash/drop damage much better than stock gurads and look good.
* despite the bars being wider, because the bar-end weights have been replaced by the hand guards, the bike isn’t actually any wider overall.
* The factory handlebars made their way onto a GN125. It looks sick and massively improved that bike!
* Be aware that bar risers will slightly stretch your powerband, so you need to choose the right colour to suit.September 27, 2016 at 11:02 pm #14165
The original Ventura rack from the previous owner worked well. Easy to remove, carried luggage well and generally pretty useful.
However I felt the rack carried the weight a little too far back and all that weight hanging off the joints just felt a little too sketchy for the amount of luggage I was carrying.
I removed that and went for the next-level up from Ventura. This luggage system weighs a whopping 8.5kg, so I would recommend the smaller Ventura rack for most people.
- The only luggage rack where the panniers have a kind of shelf to secure on.
- relatively easy to disassemble and remove most of the system, except for the rear rack, that now holds your indicators so that is a little more effort to remove.
- It is very solid, nothing is going to shake or shift on you.
The not so good:
- although it’s designed to work with a pillon, there really isn’t any space for someone to sit as it covers part of the seat.
- Did I mention how heavy the whole thing weighed? 8.5kg!
The standard Ventura is fine of you need more than just the factory tie-down points. It is probably sufficient for most.
The extensive Ventura system if you’re planning on carrying more cargo. e.g. if you were planning on travelling for a few months *wink wink* But I haven’t really had a chance to report back on this yet.
I also purchased a pair of 40L Kiwi Camping brand luggage bags to strap on the panniers. They aren’t branded for motorbikes, but they appear to be built tough enough. I’ll report on these once i’ve put them through their paces.
Pictures of both to come.September 27, 2016 at 11:06 pm #14167
Pretty sure this is the DR I had plans to buy, but alas it disappeared off Trademe before I got my A into G. This is it touring the South Island…September 27, 2016 at 11:21 pm #14168
Haha, yes that’s the one!September 28, 2016 at 10:28 am #14173
Rank: 1200cc Rider
- Location: Hamilton
- Bike: Suzuki DR650 ADV
Hmm, I suspect your 2nd post has some formatting code in it that’s made things go funny.
Edit: yep, fixed it now.October 4, 2016 at 6:43 pm #14282
Still playing catch up on the rest of the mods, I think I’ll just list everything else the bike currently has:
B&B Offroad Bash Plate:
Pretty solid, i’ve landed on it a few times/ had sticks and stones flicked into it, so I think it’s paid itself off.
Engine case side armour:
Judging by the amount of scuffs/ scratches the plates have picked up, I think this was a good mod. The bike would be looking much more worn down without them.
2x 10W LED Spotlights:
Mounted down either side of the Headlight. They are super bright. Easily drown out the main beam, its a difference of night and day. The only problem is that lots of light spills off and annoys oncoming drivers.
Acerbis 20L Tank:
Mounted with additional RH petcock. Also used the procycle front indicator relocators. I haven’t put it through its paces yet but the larger tank looks good and I think is a little easier to grip seeing as my knees are so high up the bike. The only problem is the petcock sits lower than factory now so the fuel line has to loop above the petcock. I’ll have to see if this becomes an issue.
I’ll add more info on this later. The butt-dyno says it has way more torque. i.e. the front lifts much easier, I have to hang off the bars way more than usual, it’s a very nice mod to a bike with ‘learner legal’ levels of power.
Sheepskin seat cover:
DIY Job, works very well, comfortable and easy to remove.
Magnetic drain plug:
I’m sure it helps, at only a few dollars I don’t think its a bad investment.
Exhaust polish and grind of the internal weld ring:
When I had the exhaust off I inspected the weld-ring that people talk about grinding down. Mine wasn’t very big, and I didn’t really have anything to grind it with. I probably wouldn’t go out of my way to do this mod.
But i did remove the paint on the exhaust and polish the stainless. It’s very pretty now.
I think that covers everything so far.
PVC Pipe tool-tube
Carb overhaul (it’s leaking when the bike sits)
Modified Cam (#223 grind probably)
Second set of wheels (road tyres)
Braided brake linesOctober 6, 2016 at 8:23 pm #14309
Hi – great write up, thanks.
Can you say where you got the lights and handlebar from?
Interested in the pipe tool tube build too – have been looking at doing this too.
CheersOctober 6, 2016 at 10:20 pm #14312
The handlebars were from cycle treads. I went with the standard thickness ones. pretty much any shop that sells dirt bike/ motoX gear will have a selection of Renthal/ Pro-taper. As for choosing which bend, first I spent heaps of time thinking about how the current handlebars fitted e.g. for me I felt the DR bars were pushing my elbows in and causing my wrists to awkwardly kink out. and then I just spend an hour in the shop looking like a dork doing half-squats with the different bars.October 6, 2016 at 10:21 pm #14313
Tomorrow I’ll probably have finished mounting the tool tube, so I’ll update that as I go along. But if anyone needs some 80mm PVC downpipe, I have a few feet spare.October 7, 2016 at 9:10 am #14314
ThanksOctober 7, 2016 at 7:27 pm #14315
Not wishing to highjack your thread, but today I was doing my valve clearances and as all covers were off and tools were out, I thought I’d take the opportunity to show (badjelly) what I did.
Total length 355mm, 80mm downpipe, padded inside at end, Galv bracing straps ($1 at bunnings) and last pic shows the contents including my homemade trail jack.
Attachments:October 7, 2016 at 9:28 pm #14319
Nice one – that’s more or less what I was thinking of – behind the battery.
The sub-frame might be different on your DR from my DRZ, the thing that had me paused was that the tool tube would be very offset from the available mounting points and I’m dubious about it flapping around/fatiguing…
Does your set up move around, or is it fairly secure?
CheersOctober 7, 2016 at 10:51 pm #14320
I’m confident it won’t fall off. Has sat there for the last 6500k’s without giving me cause for concern. Nil vertical movement, could move slightly in a horizontal manor if pushed (I see that as a good thing).
I have split washers on the bolts to ensure they don’t loosen.
My body will fatigue before it does!November 5, 2017 at 12:51 pm #19980
Rank: 400cc Rider
- Location: Waerenga
- Bike: 08 Husaberg FE 450 and a classic 86 Honda XLR250R
G-day @adrianmc0609, nice looking build threadb
Can you tell me what you used to mount the tool tube, and how has it held up to the abuse of dual sport use?. Looks to be perforated nail tape is is strong enough (not so much holding power, but not bending and shifting?)
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