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Home Forums Sidecars Sidecar Builds Box.a.bits R100GS / Velorex 562 sidecar build

This topic contains 13 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  Box.a.Bits 1 month, 1 week ago.

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  • #27713

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    The backstory:
    As you may be aware, I bought an 1986 R80 mono tug & sidecar from Eddie a few years ago. I ran that for 2 years, & had a ball.

    But in Nov ’17 I did a South Island trip with some other sidecars, & decided I needed to make some upgrades.

    In Feb this year I sold the the tug, after stripping out the R100GS engine I’d been running & replacing that with the original R80 engine.

    The R100GS engine & sidecar have sat in the corner of the garage since then, waiting for me to resurrect them.

    I am a man with a plan. The tug was sold to finance an R80 G/S I bought in Timaru. That came with a donor R100RT. Both turned out to be in not quite so good condition, so my R100GS was stripped to get the G/S up & running as a daily rider.

    Which left me with an stripped R100GS (Gus) to be rehabilitated as a sidecar tug & several tubs of mostly worn out parts. Given the G/S has stolen the front wheel, triples & forks, brakes, engine, carbs, oilcooler, hardheads, gearbox, ignition, charging system, & front indicators, there is a just a wee bit of work required to get Gus back on the road.

    Front wheels:
    I needed to get the rolling frame up & running, & that requires the KTM forks, HPM triples, & brembo brake work with the new wheels I have picked up. The wheels are 18″ tubeless cross laced spoke items, originally sourced from R1200Cs. One will go on the KTM forks, the other on the sidecar.

    The wheels run a 20mm axle. The bearings on one wheel were rough, so I’ve dropped them out. Fair to say that they were a shit to remove, despite heating the hub, & using what are usually pretty successful processes to shift the bearings. Finally, I resorted to (ugly) welding of a bolt & washer to the bearing inner to be able to punch them out. I still ended up smashing part of the bearing in that process.

    Two issues:
    – The forks have been set up to run a 25mm axle compared to the 20mm axle the wheel used to run. The wheels hub is a 47mm I/D, so there is enough room to upsize.
    – The wheels run a special 20x47x20.6mm bearing that is a (spendy) BMW proprietory item & there doesn’t appear to be a comparable 25mm item. I’ve ended up running two bearings – a 12mm & a 8mm wide bearing & getting a spacer made up to accommodate the difference.

    These are alloy rims, chromed. Unfortunately the 1200C model suffered a number of warranty claims for chrome peeling off the alloy. They later went to cast wheels.

    One solution (to the chrome peeling) is to paint them, in order to tidy them, but also to stop any moisture getting under the chrome. My wheels were spraybombed with that in mind.

    I wanted to see what the wheels were like under the paint, so applied paint stripper, & waterblasted them. I found that the chrome peeled off one wheel quite readily, & so decided to continue with that process to get back to the alloy or undercoating. So far I have most of the chrome off, & the rim underneath looks good, with only a little corrosion round some of the spokes.

    The other remains stubbornly rough…

    The hubs have been powder coated, & weren’t quite as amenable to stripping. More work required there. In an ideal world I’d strip the wheel, & have the hubs blasted. But cross lace wheels are difficult to re-lace, & I don’t want the expense at present. I’ll probably just sand & paint.

    Progress update – 10th Mar ’18:
    Wheel, brakes, forks & triples off to John to:
    – Make spacers for the wheel to fit the 25mm axle
    – Make spacers to fit the wheel into the forks
    – Adjust the caliper spacer to fit the forks, & discs
    – Make up a new steering stem to fit the triples. Whilst the existing stem fits, it’s in alloy, & we’ve agreed a steel stem would be more robust & less prone to galling because of the interference fit the alloy / bearing interface requires.

    Gearbox refresh:
    I have two gearboxes that need a rebuild.

    · The spare is very tight & rough when you turn the output flange. The rear of the case at the output flange is cracked, suggesting that this one might have seen a catastrophic (bearing?) failure.
    · The one from the G/S has notches as you move it forward or back, suggesting the bearings need replacement.

    I picked up the spare gearbox (spare) by mistake & started to pull that down. Got as far as removing the drain plug. That, the roughness turning the output shaft, & the cracked output flange support a catastrophic bearing collapse. After seeing that, I’ve put the gearbox back on the shelf for later inspection / pull down.

    The other gearbox was in better (but notchy) condition.

    Fortunately Mrs Box.a.bits was away for the day, so rather than heat the gearbox with a torch, the entire gearbox took a wee break in the oven. That helped with the cover removal & also allowed easier removal of the shafts & bearing inside the gearbox.

    I’ve pulled down the G/S gearbox now & am pretty happy with what I have initially seen. The larger output shaft bearing is retained with a circlip, so no movement on the shaft. But that bearing is pretty worn, as expected. The rest of the box is in good nick. So I’ll replace at least the five ball bearings. I am hoping that I can leave the expensive roller bearing for now, but that’ll need closer inspection. The selector forks have way less wear than Gus’s had, & there doesn’t appears to be any pitting on the gear sets, so the water I found in the gearbox doesn’t appear to have caused any damage.

    #27714

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    Progress update 12th Mar 18:
    John has mostly finished setting up the front end for me – he’s made up a bearing spacer, axle spacer, caliper mount & making up a new steering stem. I need to finish tidying the wheel, install seals, finish shortening the forks, then instal. I’ll need a brake line.

    Gearbox overhead – continued:
    I have continued on with the gearbox, but am caught waiting on parts. Motobins should have sent Fedex, but mistakenly sent via Royal Mail. That means that rather than finishing the gearbox this weekend, it’ll be at least easter weekend before that is finished.

    Last time I did a gearbox I did that with heat, a bearing puller, & a bearing separator. That was doable, but fairly painful. I started down the same track, made some pretty metal baubles using coins to protect the shafts from the bearing puller end, but got stuck with one recalcitrant bearing.

    So this time I’ve bought a 12 tonne hydraulic press, which has made pressing on & off the bearings a whole heap easier.

    The other reason for the press was that I decided Gus’s final drive may be too high geared for the work the sidecar does, so a lower first ratio would help. The Seibenrock 5% lower first is available via Motobins, so I’ve bought that. That brings first gear more in line with an R80GS paralever. To replace first gear, that gear needs to be pressed off the intermediate shaft. That needs a fairly grunty press. Fortunately the new press coped, albeit there was a heap of groaning going on. Here’s the gear still sitting on the shaft in the bearing area, post separation. I used the gear next to it (which moves freely on the shaft) to help ease it off, together with a bearing separator.

    The final reason was that I had decided to replace the input roller bearing & it’s associated top hat. The top hat had developed a groove from where the input seal was rubbing. The top hat has to be pressed backwards over the input shaft, which means all of that shaft needs to be stripped. I’ve made up a tool to allow the little spring clip to be released from the base the shock spring.

    However, in doing that I discovered more wear on input Helical gear ramps than I expected.

    Whilst the Airhead gearboxes appear the same from the /6’s, they have had a number of upgrades. One of the major upgrades was in 1981, when the helical gears were changed from a 15 degree gear to a 17.5 degree gear. The 17.5 degree gears are marked with a ‘X’ to ease identification. Unfortunately those early input gear upgrades had an issue with wear on the shock ramps & in extreme cases the ramps or ears broke. These ramps were there to absorb some of the stress from over enthusiatic throttle applications & sudden down changes. In 1985 BMW made a final change to a thicker input spline & changed the ‘X’ gear & shock ramps.

    Fortunately the trashed spare gearbox was available for me to pillage for part. The gearbox serial number indicated it was a post 85 box (one worry with older bikes is that the parts may have been swapped during their lives). I have to say that breaking the taper on that output shaft flange was the most difficult I have experienced so far. I was using a long cheater bar on the socket & it still wouldn’t budge. When it finally went it was with a loud crack – I thought I’d broken the output flange.

    The spare gearbox is a totally different internal colour to the G/S gearbox. It looks like someone has been in the box before me. My guess is the PO ran the wrong oils, or didn’t change the oils when water was present, the whole thing overheated, & the bearings collapsed. I haven’t gotten into it enough to check it thoroughly. Certainly the three bearings I can turn are rumbley.

    The input shaft appears in good condition, but I haven’t started to disassemble it yet. I’ve added a photo to allow you to see the differences between the early eighties & post 1985 assembles. The upgraded assembly on the left. You can see what I mean about the colour of components from the spare gearbox – look at the left spring compared to the right.

    The spare gearbox is full of swarf & smells of heated metal. I’m pretty sure it was run for a while with dying & then dead bearings. Getting off the input shaft bearing was just about too much for the 12 tonne press.

    So this is what GBP181.50 of gearbox parts looks like…Not happy about the price, but very happy that they are finally here so I can finish the gearbox build off..

    #27715

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    Progress update – 3rd Apr ’18:
    This is the difference between a 5% lower first gear & the standard one. Take a guess which is which.

    How it works

    The gearbox is now reassembled, shimmed, & buttoned up. Took me a few goes to get the assembly order right (heating the box, dropping in bearings, locating selectors, juggling the lay & output shafts, & then getting bearings to seat properly). Shimmed up nicely. It changed gears & is a freer turning box than Gus’s was post bearing replacement, so the shimming must be a little looser. Made a wee blue filling the box with oil while it was on it’s side on the work bench. Then I realised the oil was flowing out of the speedo drive.

    I will reinstall the box in the next few days once I have a rolling chassis.

    HPM triples & forks:
    I’ve shortened the KTM250SX forks (I’ve put a video link below), but didn’t check on the bushes & seals yet. I figure that I will need to tweak things, so no point in changing these now. The fork springs are shortened 75 mm (which increases spring rate). I’ve also inserted an internal spacer in the cartridge / on the damper rod / above the top out spring, to reduce travel 75mm. So the forks notionally retains the 225mm R100GS travel, & should be in the ball park for sag pre the sidecar going on. The forks have 600cc 5wt oil per side, with about 110mm air gap. Actually much of the work (& spending) was done by Igormortis, & I’ve just finished it – but looks good for my application. The triples are set to mimic the stock GS offset, but the shorter wheel will reduce rake.

    Here’s a link on how to shorten early open cartridge WP4860 USD forks

    The triples were relatively painless to fit, as I had had John make me up a more robust steel stem (replacing the alloy KTM stem). This has a slightly looser fit on the top bearing. I’ll need to figure out how the instruments will mount. I’ll be using Gus’s light again, so mounting that is easy. BTW another set of HPM triples & a set of KTM open chamber forks are for sale on facebook for EUR850 if you are interested…The set up uses a Brembo Goldline calliper. Pads are equivalent of EBC FA244HH. I’ll have to wait to see if the brake is sufficient for the chair weight. If not I’ll buy another set of forks to get another left leg, so I can mount another bark calliper.

    I’ve mocked up the bike with tank. Probably wont be the prettiest bike out there.

    I’ve chosen the KTM forks because they are a leading axle, strong, & what I already had available. Should do everything better than what I had on the R80, & not have the slightly worrisome modified triples that the R80 had.

    A stock KTM triple has offset 20-25mm, however the HPM triples were built for a BMW G/S on steroids – a G/S with bigger suspension travel. Offset is 38mm rather than 43, but otherwise…

    Also, this will have an 18″ wheel rather than a 21″, so a reduction in rake, with the ability to tune somewhat in where the forks sit in the triples. So yes, still ‘too much’ trail, but better than the mono I was punting around before.

    Postscript:
    Confirmed rake with my set up is 28 degrees, & I’ve measured trail at 92mm, on the unladen solo bike, working with stock R100GS suspension travel, & without dropping the forks thru the clamps. Wheel radius 310mm.

    Progress update – 8th Jul ’18:
    Finally got a free afternoon to work on Gus, with an eventual view towards getting the sidecar operable.

    Nothing major completed. Just pottering around. And no photos at eleven.

    Fitted up the front sidecar mounts. The top front mounts sit where the front HPN tank mounts were (& the reason why that tank needed to move to the G/S). The bottom front mount is more problematic. The GS gearshift boss fouls where this needs to run. The back mounts will need to be fabricated once the bike is mobile.

    Refitted the gear change linkage, & fitted the original (narrow) metal footpegs. I’ll look at replacing those with wider platforms at some later date (the pivot pegs Gus used to wear are now on the G/S).

    I spent some time cleaning up the old G/S airbox. That had half a farm load of soil in it, along with a load of oil (the RT airbox that was on the G/S has the clean air solenoids & associated plumbing in it, so I’ve decided not to use that). Once the G/S airbox was clean, then I could refit the sidecar 40mm GS carbs (off the bent bike). No cableing yet.

    Also cleaned up the stainless exhaust headers, & y-pipe, which had become quite discoloured.

    I’ve had Mossrax make up a new stainless front brake line to fit the new calliper. Just need more time to make up some bracketry to hold that in place, then fit it.

    Unfortunately a load of the good parts have gone into the G/S, or the (sold) R80 Mono. So much of the afternoon was spent scouring the tubs & boxes that hold the remains of the RT & G/S motor searching for missing parts, & making up a small list of things that need to be sourced or replaced in due course. Like the missing bolt & nut that holds the gearbox to the engine, which I cannot find for love nor money. Or a replacement for the one set of the exhaust clamp rings which were stolen for the G/S – (the G/S was missing one side when I got it) – I should have been able to replace that from the bent bike.

    Gus is well on his was to becoming even more of a Frankenbike than he used to be, using parts from 12 other bikes:
    – R100GS – Gus original frame, paralever, final drive, wheel & modified wiring loom
    – R100GS – Bumblebee 24 litre tank
    – R100GSPD – Engine, carbs, oil cooler, driveshaft, gearbox, & ignition switch from the bent bike
    – R100GSPD – Seat from MarkS’s bike
    – R80 Mono – Front axle, & starter motor
    – R65 – horn & crash bar brackets
    – R80G/S – Airbox, alternator, & diode board
    – R100RT – twin Fiam horns, regulator, assorted small parts
    – R1200C – front wheel & front disc. Front Tyre is OEM DR200 (quality) 😀
    – KTM 250SX – shortened forks & fork guards
    – YZ250F – front guard
    – GSXR600 – exhaust can

    Postscript. :clap Found the exhaust clamp rings, a better exhaust nut, & most of the small bits I was missing in another forgotten box. The gearbox/engine bolt & nut remains stubbornly lost

    Progress update – 22nd Jul ’18:
    It occurs to me that maybe I should have painted the frame before I started all of this reassembly work. :hmmmmm. Oh well, something to do – some other time.

    While all the major components are in place, it’s making everything work together cohesively that is taking time. The final fixing of some bits that were just rush assembled in a dry run, to get things up to roller stage. Like the top triple clamp that was missed the top bearing shield. Or the non matched RHS spark plug cap (probably from the RT) that needed replacing. Or finding & recycling other small parts – like the rear brake cable adjuster off the bent bike – Gus’s original is MIA (no doubt I’ll find a small stash of parts after I clean up at the end of the project).

    Also spent way too much time making brackets out of alloy angle, for the regulator, brake lines, & the heated grip relay.

    When Mossrax made the brake line, the bottom banjo was angled, the top straight. I’ve swapped them around. The current set up is not ideal (for bleeding, quite apart from any other reason), but I’ve ended up putting the angled banjo at the top because the straight banjo fouled the barkbusters.

    Also sorting the myriad of small issues like fuel lines, throttle & choke cables, & accessory wiring.

    Sent off a spares order to Motorworks. Mainly for stuff that I couldn’t recycle from other bikes. Like final drive seals, new rear brake shoes, the rear brake cable, & another EI tail light (all for Gus). And a new clutch cable (for the G/S – the old one initially responded well to cleaning but is getting stiff again). Also ordered more oil filters from Kelvin in Blenhiem, & need a new rear tyre for the G/S (probably get in a Shinko 805). Mrs Box.a.bits will say that’s enough for now. There’s more stuff I should have ordered, but I’ll have to make do for an interim period. Like a seat cover, paralever pivots, & a mirror.

    Managed to break my bigger torque wrench. No idea what happened there. It got stiff, & broke internally when I was dialling it down from setting the engine mounts.

    Progress update – 29 Jul ’18:
    Prototyped a new dash set up.

    Also did some work cleaning up Mark_s’s old seat.

    Longer term I am aiming to recover it with in a bumble bee scheme. I was putting the old cover back on, with an intention to (vinyl) paint it black. Now it’s on I have decided the red doesn’t look too objectionable (for an interim period anyway), so will leave it (Mrs Box.a.bits likes it).

    Progress update – 4th & 5th Aug ’18:
    Installed some new airhead jewellery – I’ve swiped the old EI LED tail light for the G/S.

    The headlight & front guards creates a change in the perceived frontal dimensions.

    Most of today’s work was getting the bottom brake line holder to work with the front guard. Originally that was supposed to go between the guard & fork leg. Eventually I made a slightly larger one to go outside of the fork guard. Also needed to dremel a cut out in the fork guard to allow clearance for the disc bolts (yes, it’s tight in there…).

    The right side front guard can’t be bolted to the fork legs – the internal threads on the fork leg are stripped. I’ll need to get a helical kit in.

    Made a stand-off for the instruments.

    Progress update – 2nd Aug ’18:
    How time flies. Slow but steady progress. Front brakes are now bleed & operational. Used an old R100 twin shock brake line stay, so that’s the 13th bike that has contributed.

    Got some alloy standoffs made up, so the instrument brackets are bolted up properly.

    9th Aug ’18:
    Front indicators (Barkbuster LEDs) wired in. Front brake disc bolted up.

    The Bosch Electro Magnet Alternator:

    I’ve used Gus’s old motor & the Endurolast alternator in the G/S ‘Supertanker’, so I needed to come up with a stock alternator solution for Gus. That meant reinstalling the bosch electro magnet alternator, diode board, & regulator, & recreating some of the wiring I’d ditched in Gus’s earlier solo iteration.

    To power up the alternator, I needed to either wire in a new 3w tell tale light, or use a resister to mimic the draw. On the stock R100GS, that light was part of the idiot tell tales within the instrument cluster, long since on-sold.

    This light has 2 main functions:
    – To show that the alternator was working, & as an indicator of the charging systems health. This function has already been met by the use of a Sparkbright LED voltmeter;
    – To excite the alternator’s electro magnets. It does this as part of a circuit from the switched power on its way to ground. Above 1.5-2k rpm, the light extinguishes as the alternator powers up. The power cannot flow from the alternator back to the 3w bulb, as it is restricted in flow ‘direction’ thru the diode board.

    I wasn’t keen on Padmei’s suggestion of the using the headlight park light – I use that instead of the headlight during the commute (albeit with a 21w halogen bulb in place of the stock 3w item).

    Rather than bother with a bulb, I’ve gone down the resister route. That is documented here & in Snowbums article here. Effectively there are 2 paths people follow:
    – To wire in a 330 ohm 5w resister in parallel to supplement the 3w pilot bulb, as a protection should the 3w bulb burn out, or;
    where the 3w bulb is deleted completely, wire in a 47 ohm 5 w resister (which mimics the draw from the bulb).
    – I’ve adopted the second option. I’ve run a bridging wire between the green/brown wire switched power from the alternator, thru the 47 ohm 5 w resister, connecting to the blue wire running down to the diode board. Checked Warin’s calculation using some of the excellent calculators on the net – spot on.

    One area I need to wait for more real world experience on is how hot this resister gets if the ignition is switched on, but the alternator is not charging.

    Progress update – 15th Sep ’18:
    Shifted the heated grip controller onto another bracket under the tank, & mounted the grip heater relay off the other side of that same bracket.

    Mounted the heated grip switch off the cross bar pinch bolts on the handlebars.

    Reinstalled the battery, turned the key, no apparent shorts (so that’s good – right?), dash lights up, indicators work (front’s are wired the wrong way round -Doh!), lights work, engine turns over on the starter motor, so far, so good. :thumb

    #27716

    Eddieb
    Keymaster
    • Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
    • Bike: Suzuki DR650 ADV
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    It’s going to be quite a machine when done.

    #27719

    Addo007
    Participant
    • Location: Taradise
    • Bike: Dr350
    • Rank: 400cc Rider

    Really enjoying following this, a lot of the technical stuff is over my head but I would love to have the knowledge to be able to do this. Keep the updates coming, looking great so far

    #27774

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    Progress update 19th Sept 18
    New bracket for the speedo reed switch under the brake. Less than ideal for the rough stuff, but practical real world. The speedo line then runs up the brake line (which stiffen that).

    ‘New’ second hand tank holding mount fitted. The rubber mount at the rear of the tank is new, however, & created an issue getting the tank it to fit correctly. Eventually I zip tied the arms of the tank mount together (over fuel line), as these were spreading. I also replaced the rubber on the mount (with fuel line) to allow this to ease (with effort) over the frame backbone.

    Front indicator wiring changed, so that the correct front LED indicators flash. Also changed the rear indicators back to the stock 21w flasher units. The bigger draw stops the hyper flashing – the main flasher unit was expecting 2x10w indicators + resisters I ran on Gus V1.0. Still need a dash light, as I can’t see the LED indicators flashing when I’m seated on the bike.

    Fuel taps in place. Unfortunately one of the filter socks broke as I cleaned this, so need to get in another.

    Swirled a bit of fuel in the tank to pick up any dirt, & to remove the oil coating the tank had been stored with. The fuel came back out ‘fairly’ clean.

    Progress update 22nd Sep:
    So after getting the tank to mount properly, turned on the ignition with an intent to do the first start and….no dash lights, no ignition.

    Investigated, & found the main power feed to the ignition key (coming up from the main wiring loom) had broken. Sealed connectors. Because of the positioning that would potentially mean tearing the main loom apart to fix with new connectors. Fortunately I have been able to replace with the ignition switch sub-loom off the bent bike. So we are away again. But the ignition is just zip tied to the handlebars as an interim measure.

    First ride in the night (as a solo anyways). Does all the right things, shifts well, steers well (better than expected), brakes okay (but not brilliantly) – remember new pads. Also maybe a little bit of air left in the lines. Slight surge at small throttle opening, needs tuning out. Pissed fuel on the service station forecourt, which might just be junk making it’s way out from new fuel lines & dirt in the tank. We’ll see.

    Progress update 29th Sept ’18:
    Some bad news during the week. I was going to get new sidecar mounts made up, but because the tug has taken so long to get to rideable stage, John no longer has capacity to do this for me. That left me scratching my head, what to do about them. But after thinking about it over night, & looking at what I already have, I’ll just go ahead with the universal mounts, & put in some bracing onto those, to limit movement. Not the end of the world…

    One issue that did need to be resolved was the right side front fork guard mounts had been stripped, & so needed to be repaired. That’s something I haven’t done before, & the mounts are quiet shallow, & blind, so I was concerned I might not have enough meat in the mounts to make an effective repair.

    Got in a Helicoil repair pack. This comes with the drill bit, taps, 10x 6 mm (ID) helicoils, & the tools necessary to fit them. Just a case of drilling out the old mounts, tapping the hole, winding in the new coils, & breaking off the insertion tang at the bottom of the coil. Because the coils were slightly too long, I needed to cut the coil on the face of the mounts (once in), & then file those flush. Simples…

    Kinda sorta got the sidecar attached, purely for testing purposes of course – the test course may follow the DGR ride Sunday. I already know the front end needs firming up at bit, & I need to rethink the lower rear mount.

    Progress update 2nd Oct ’18:
    Bit of a last minute thrash to get Gus upon & running with the sidecar for the Distinguished Gentlemens Ride. Worked quite late Saturday night, & Sunday morning I was out doing an alignment & fixing last minute details. Unfortunately in all that work I forgot to check tyre pressures, so the whole ride was run with 20PSI front, & 15PSI back. The sidecar tyre was fine.

    Suspension was a bit soft on the DGR, so was looking at it today. Front suspension travel is 225mm (actually closer to 230mm), unladen (but with the tub connected) unused suspension travel 165mm, laden 138mm – 38.7%, target 25-35%, so need to firm the spring a bit more, & put in some preload spacers.

    I’ll leave the rear for the interim.

    Front brake has bedded in nicely, & I am happy with that (was concerned there might not be enough there).

    Exhaust was doing a bit of popping at low RPM, so more jetting work to do. Or I may switch back to the SV1000 muffler. Still to decide.

    Got in some metal this arvo, so will start to think about how I’ll deal with the revised rear mounts.

    Need to wire in the sidecar lights.

    #27963

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    Progress update 16th Oct ’18 – making up sidecar mounts:
    I’m in the process of making more robust mounts for the sidecar (than what is provided with the universal Velorex mounts). Bear in mind some of this is prototyping. In particular the rear mounts. I’ll get something that works, then revisit at some point & make tidier versions. Any prototypes mounts will be replaced with fresh fabrications welded by a certified welder once the basic concepts are proven. If you see something that stands out, that could be improved, don’t hesitate to sing out though.

    Generally connections will be clamps or bolt up (assuming there is an existing frame structure I can connect to).

    My ability to fabricate is limited:
    – I can only arc welding, & my welds have been… um, variable in quality. Any welding would be limited to the mount brackets I make up. Any welding on the frame structure is a no no. Mounts are all in steel, or use the existing mount clevis bolts.
    – I have no access to a lathe
    – I am limited in the steel I can use: 16mm 2mm wall tubing, flat strap 10x2mm, flat 50x10mm, tubing 38×2.6mm (which I would need to get in a hydraulic bender to bend).

    My welding has improved dramatically, because I’ve purchased a proper welding helmet, with an auto darkening visor. No more welding by braille. And I’ve bought a cheap chinese drill press. What a jump up from my handheld drills. Especially through 10mm steel.

    Top front:
    The front top will stay as is, except I have added longer bolts & locked them in place with nyloc nuts. The orginals had shorter high tensile bolts into tapped clamps – I felt there was room for movement due to different materials used.

    Bottom Front:
    The bottom front clamp is on a plate bolted to the front engine mount. No real potential for movement there, except for some spinning around the engine mount – unlikely given the clevis will hold it vertically. And there is only potential for movement if the mounts are not torqued to spec. The location of the mount results in any stress being spread across the frame thru the engine mount, and is at one of the strongest points in the frame. No photo.

    Top Rear:
    For the top rear, I will use the universal clamp to the frame, but with a bolt up mount to the frame to stop any potential for the clamp to spinning on the frame. Positioning is not ideal, but at a strong point. I may rethink this at a later iteration. Ideally I want this to spread stress across both sides of the frame.

    Bottom Rear:
    Bottom rear is problematic. I used the universal clamp for the DGR, off the bottom of the frame – that was too far forward on the sidecar frame. It worked, but didn’t feel ‘solid’.

    The rear mounts are evolving, & I’m fortunate that I have a spare (wrecked) frame that I can try ideas out on.

    Originally I thought to use 50x10mm flat plate (spars) across the mounts – but the gear change boss on the frame, & the accompanying gear change mechanism) gets in the way. One way around this is to use an earlier gear lever without the linkage & bore a hole in the plate for the boss (or cut it off completely, which I am loathe to do).

    A second iteration used a parallel spars on either side of the LHS frame, again using the engine mounts. That bolt up concept again. The ‘bottom’ spar between the frame & engine replaced the engine mount spacers. These measured in at 9mm front left, & 6mm for both rears & the right front. This arrangement pushed the engine across the frame to the RHS a minor amount. The difference was made up with washers.

    The ‘top’ spar only picked up the rear mount (because the gear change issues noted above). Behind the frame I was going to use a couple of 12 mm bolts & tubing to link the spars, to maintain spacings & prevent flex. This ran into issues with the exhaust position, but that was resolved with cut outs. It failed when I realised I could no longer pull in the clutch arm, as the shift in the engine had absorbed some of the arc the clutch arm needed to operate. I could have ground down the clutch arm slightly to get clearance but the limitations of this approach were becoming clear.

    The next iteration used the top spar, but mounted to the bottom of the footpeg mount. This has some issues as over tightening the footage mount will stop the footpeg folding up. So it will be braced at the rear across to the Paralever arm, & up to the rear subframe mount. Still working on that…

    As I said, work in progress…

    One other area that will need to be addressed is the rear bottom clamp on the sidecar frame, which also has a habit of spinning.

    #27995

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    Progress update – 22nd Oct ‘18
    I thought a sawn off shotgun could help defray expenses. Thinking Ma Baker. Unfortunately this appears to be the wrong bore.

    Welded two 16 O/D 2mm wall thickness tubes together to start the cross brace to the bottom rear sidecar mount. The end mounts for the cross brace are the Paralever pivot mount, & the rear of the spar, just ahead of the clevis.

    The paralever pivot bolt is 10mm thick, & also acts as the pivot for the brake lever (at the other end). Fortunately there was a spacer between the end of the paralever pivot mount & the nut, so that allowed the cross brace to use the same pivot bolt & nut, without the need for a machined replacement.

    There is minimal clearance on the exhaust. The V1.0 was too tight. There is about 1mm in it in V2.0.

    The v2.0 brace hangs down from the paralever pivot at 45 degrees, in order to get clearance from the exhaust. I was going to gusset this, but that would make the pivot nut harder to tighten, so we’ll see how it goes. The force acting on it will be anything that attemts to bend the 10mm spar. The cross brace mount is 6mm thick, so a reasonable amount of steel to bend, & not a long lever.

    I’ve drilled out the folding LHS footpeg mounts holes to 12.5mm, & have a 25mm piece of 12 mm alloy tube inside that, to act as a pivot. The tube is clamped between the two frame ‘ears’. The main benefit of that is that it braces between the two ‘ears’ on the footpeg mount, & allows that to act as a solid mount for the rear mount spar. But the footpeg can still pivot freely.

    As shown in the earlier photos, I’ve also put in a back brace behind the spar, from the clevis mount thru to the footage bracket. The idea of this was to limit flex in the spar, as well as provide a mount for the tapped clevis block.

    Also, while the brake lever area was apart (during work of the paralever pivot mount), I took the opportunity to lube the rear brake lever pivot, & also replace the brake cable, which was fairly stiff.

    The rear mount is now complete aside from testing, & minor finishing work including paint.

    #28074

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    Progress update – 4th Nov. Engineered sidecar mounts
    At the conclusion of the last post Ken from a Better Boxer Co contacted me, & offered to assist build a better engineered set of sidecar mounts. He may also have been motivated to do this given I’m supposed to be riding with him on a South Island sojourn. I think he’d prefer not to pick up a mate off the pavement. That would be inconvenient. What ever the reason, it has been damned good of him to help me out.

    The first step was to nut out a design for the mounts. A right side sidecar mount is relatively easy, & well documented in the interweb – a left side mount has a number of obstacles to work around. Those include:

    – Gear change & foot peg arrangements
    – Exhaust (on the GS & G/S in particular)
    – On the GS, the lack of a left passenger footpeg gives a challenge for rear mounts.
    – How the mount interacts with the frame, and
    – Where the mounts can bolt or clamp onto the frame.

    We looked at a few iterations of the design, but the final one closely mirrors what is commercially available for RHS chairs.

    We’ve used 38mm 2.6mm roll cage tube at the bottom, running just above the frame, with welded ‘U’ channel down to the engine mounts. The tube is then bent under the footpeg, The bend clears the exhaust & picks up where the original spar would have placed the bottom rear mount. The front bottom mount is marginally higher than the original, & somewhat forward. This changes the sidecar lead a small amount, but was better for the top front mount pick up.

    The top front mount remains ‘as is’, except we’ve added a tube running down to the bottom front mount. This strengthens both mounts by stopping any frame twist. The tube picks up the top mount using the existing mount bolts (tapped into the new tube steel ‘slug’).

    The horn will be relocated back up the frame nr the steering head, given the mount tube already partially restricts airflow to the LHS barrel.

    The top rear mount sits on a clamp to the left rear downtube, linked down to the bottom rear mount by more welded tube.

    The load is spread across the frame from an existing frame tab to the top shock mount. This is positively positioned with a saddle arrangement across the top of the shock mount.

    The tube running from the top rear mount to the bottom rear mount is kinked to clear the frame, & then linked to the main frame with a weld in ‘T’ piece of u-channel, which picks up the subframe mount, & on the other side of the tube also provides a mount position for the rear pannier frame.

    All of the mounts are on solid steel slugs, that have been milled to allow a press fit inside of the mount tubes. These are then fully welded in. There are also plug welds further along the tubes into the slugs for additional strength. Where the clevis bolts in, the slugs have been milled for spacers to allow easy bolt up.

    The gear change was a potential problem. That has been partially resolved (still a work in progress) with the gear change linkage from the RT, & a cut down GS lever (the RT lever placed things in the wrong plane). A new boss has been welded onto the top of the sidecar mount just in front of the footpeg. This may need fettling – the throw is very short at present.

    The footpeg feels okay, but may need to be extended outward at some stage.

    Next on the agenda is stripping the mounts down & painting. I’ll take a photo of the mount in isolation during that process.

    Well pleased.

    #28204

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    PROGRESS UPDATE 11TH NOV & FIRST SHAKE DOWN RUN:
    Changed the exhaust back to the SV1000 can – quieter, & cleaner at small throttle movements. Also pinched the bash plate off the Supertanker, given the terrain we expect to see this coming week. The Supertanker will get the swiss cheese R100GS bash plate.

    Wired in the sidecar lights. Tapped off the rear light loom, connection taken care of by a lovely waterproof deutsch plug. I think I may used more of these when I tidy the wiring loom.

    Refitted a Vapor Speedo. I previously couldn’t get the backlight to work. It died after one hugely wet ride, & I thought the issue was internal to the speedo. That wouldn’t have passed WoF. It turns out the power feed had a break in it right at the waterproof connector. :hackBugger…

    The mounts have been painted. Unfortunately I didn’t wait long enough for the paint to harden, so I’ll need to do that again at some stage. At least it will keep the rust at bay. And it may motivate me to start cleaning up some of the ‘patina’ that Gus has developed in the 8 years I’ve owned him.

    Registered & warranted.

    Out with Mrs Box’a’bits to pick up some Parkvale Mushrooms, & for lunch at Martinborough. Good to have her along as ballast. This was the first ride in anger over the Remutakas. Reasonable sort of day for it.

    Modified BMW R100GS with Velorex 562 sdecar

    Back view R100GS with Velorex 562 sidecar

    Impressions:
    – The stronger front end doesn’t flex or move compared to the R80 Mono. On the whole, much nicer, but it does cause a chain reaction that means when I am pushing on, the front tyre is more inclined to slide.
    – Steering is heavy, but fine. I didn’t feel as beaten up by the time I made it across the Remutakas.
    – Front brake is weaker, but still adequate. The R80 Mono was twin disc
    – The rear brake is weaker, & a lot less inclined to lock in right hand bends (which I sometimes used on the R80 Mono to turn the bike in slow bends).
    – The tug suspension has more movement but is well damped. Unsurprising given it is higher quality & has adjustable rebound & compression damping. And more suspension travel than the more road oriented R80.
    – Mounts are way better than the universals I used at the DGR, & EddieB’s mounts on the R80 mono – you can really lean on the new mounts without feeling flex. But the stronger mounts do feed more engine vibration back into the frame.
    – There is still a small amount of carb hesitation just off idle, which I can tune out. Plugs are running nicely lean.
    – I need to move the gear lever linkage slightly, to drop the gear lever. This may assist with gear change – which needs to be fairly deliberate
    – It definitely feels higher geared than the R80. I’ve put in a lower first gear to try to compensate, but longer term I may also try to find a 32:10 ratio final drive from an R80GS to drop in.

    I haven’t been able to fit the new (R1200C) sidecar wheel for this trip. I need new spacers made up for that. Maybe next time

    Need to get a (donated & squared off) Kenda 270 rear tyre fitted. I don’t think the Shinko has enough life left for this weeks ride.

    Heading South Thursday morning with 3 other sidecars & 2 solos.

    Village Cafe interior Martinborough

    Very nice lamb fry, black sausage, & caramelised onion, on a bed of potato mash, with brown gravy & extra bacon for Sir, & a smoked salmon platter for Madam. With coffee. Very nice

    Salmon Platter Village Cafe Martinborough

    Exterior Village Cafe Martinborough & R100GS with Velorex sidecar

    #28206

    Eddieb
    Keymaster
    • Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
    • Bike: Suzuki DR650 ADV
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    Your images are broken, I tried the google image urls directly and they didn’t work either so it seems to be something at the google end of things.

    #28208

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    Hopefully the photo issues are resolved now

    #28316

    declan
    Participant
    • Location:
    • Bike:
    • Rank: 50cc Rider

    Thanks for taking the time to post this is an awesome build!

    #28404

    Box.a.Bits
    Participant
    • Location: Wellington
    • Bike: BMW Supertanker, R100GS & Velorex 562 Sidecar, Gilera Runner ST200
    • Rank: 1200cc Rider

    FIXING THE DAMAGE FROM ‘THE SLIDECARS IN THE TOP OF THE SOUTH’ RIDE.

    How it happened:

    As you may be aware, Gus sustained some damage from the Slidecars in the Top of the South. The majority of this damage stemmed from not cycling the forks through their full travel during the initial build. If I had done so I would have realised that there was insufficient clearance between the fork tops & the disc bolts in the last few cms of full compression. The other major contributing factor (to the fork damage) was that the fork springs are still slightly too soft for the ride.

    On the ride, the early indicators were:

    – That the speedo magnet was ripped from the mount, then
    – The spring clip that the fork guards ride on was shifted from its normal position, then;
    – A few hard hits, where I noted that the zip ties I was using as fork maximum movement indicators forks weren’t getting to full compression, then;
    – Damage resulting in the dust seals being pulled out of the fork tops, then;
    – Damage resulting in fork oil spewing onto the front brake.

    I have purchased a replacement set of forks – these are from a 2003 200 EXC, still WP4860, but not in as nice a condition as the prior set – but I only need one fork top.

    In the medium term the additional forks may allow me to set up second disc – but I would have the same issues as this one – the triples were set up for dirt bike hubs & not the wider road bike hubs, & so there is limited room to allow a dual disc set up.

    Modifying the brake disc set up:

    The R1200C stock brake disc is held by a combo of bobbin, bolt & wave washer. The disc is circa 5.00mm thick. The bobbins have circa 6.5mm area on which the disc can move. The disc ‘floats’ on the bobbins, with wave washers to suppress the disc rattle. The bobbins connect to the hub with button headed bolts, which sit proud from the disc circa 9.5mm.

    To gain clearance, I initially tried switching from a button headed disc bolt to a counter sunk bolt. The Bobbin was counter sunk to match the bolt. However I didn’t get enough clearance with this set up.

    Subsequently I ground down the bobbins to 4.5mm, & dispensed with the wave washers. This means that the discs are now fixed rather than fully floating. I have also replaced the 8mm x 20mm button head bolts with 8 x 16mm counter sunk bolts, & also counter sunk the bobbins to accept these. This takes the area proud of the disc from 9.5mm to just above 3.00mm.


    Safety Third…

    Once all of that was done, the disc bolts were a whisker away from the fork leg. However that didn’t provide for the snap ring that the fork guards ride on. So I have filed a small amount off the hub ‘arms’ that the disc bolts to. I’ve now achieved circa 1.5mm clearance, which should be okay.

    Speedo Magnet:

    The speedo magnet was ripped out early in the South Island trip. That was bolting into a converted ABS ring mount. I have shortened that slightly, drilled the damaged portion out, & helicoiled it.

    Repairing the forks:

    Built up a new LHS fork leg from the cartridge & lower stauntion of the original, and the fork top from the new forks. I did this because the replacement LHS fork lower had a nasty rust snarl right near the bottom compression.

    This meant pulling both forks down to component parts. I needed to Dremel out the damage from the original fork top – otherwise it wouldn’t release the fork seal & bushes. Ironic.

    I’ve found a ground down 19mm socket works well with a rattle gun to release the bottom compression adjuster nut.

    I have rebuilt the leg using the best of the bushes from the two legs. Here is a few You Tube videos that were helpful with that. Note in the Rocky Mountain video where he talks about three bushes, two bushes of equal apparent size, but that the thicker of the two goes on the bottom.

    Pulling down the forks

    Rebound damping:

    Once reassembled, I noticed that there wasn’t any/much rebound, & the adjuster wasn’t bottoming out. Got up to 50 clicks before I realised that maybe the adjuster wasn’t working. The video below helped resolve that issue. It was a combination of both issues raised in that video.

    Rebound damper adjustment issues

    In addition to this, the clicker was missing the location prong on the base of the adjuster – the adjuster still worked, but this couldn’t positively locate. By gently prying up the adjustment knob, I was able to disassemble this, which then allowed me to swap the good parts from the replacement fork top into the older fork top (I wanted to retain a matched pair).

    The clickers work with a small spring bored thru the clicker, with ball bearings in each detent. Watch out for those little buggers – I have a very clear area under my work bench now after they went missing multiple times (apparently I am a slow leaner). A bit of grease helps them not rocket off so much…

    Modifying the fork spring rate:

    I still need to investigate stronger fork & rear shock springs. Things are too soft & I have too much sag.

    Starter issues

    Wayne’s starter died just as I was about to take Gus out for a 1st test ride. So I needed to rebuild a starter motor sooner than expected.

    Pulled the EME starter down, cleaned it & then put a valeo nose casting on from the starter Gus previously ate at the Makairo Meander. Then buttoned everything back together. It was a very noisy starter – I’m guessing something bent when the casting broke. Shortly after that it refused to start again. Bugger…

    So I have made a new starter out of the remains of Gus’s Makairo starter, & Wayne’s planetary gears & sprag clutch. So far so good.

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