Eddie’s BMW R80 / Velorex 562 build
August 19, 2014 at 10:32 pm #5886
I have done a rough hand sketch from your measurements, of what your stock plate looks like. The curves are not accurate. The main thing is to establish some datum lines and work off those. with fork alignment being critical the centre lines have to be established.I have had to make a few assumptions from your pictures and measurements. Your stock fork offset is the same as mine ie. 40mm.
I assume your riser holes are 32mm centres and 80mm apart left to right. Your stock top plate has more holes than mine. yours 10 holes mine 6 holes.
Question: which holes do you not use with your setup?
I will scan and email you my rough drawing then we can talk about the new yoke plate.August 20, 2014 at 2:07 am #5887
For the bar risers I am using the 1st and 3rd holes, e.g. the holes closest to the steering stem and the 3rd holes up so that the bars are closer to me, the smaller holes between the riser holes and the fork holes are not being used.
I’ll have a look at your pic and get some more details. If I’m lucky the sidecar will be back at my place this weekend to do some wiring etc on it and get the toe in etc set. I pushed the bike around the garage at the sisters the other day and was surprised at how heavy the steering was.August 21, 2014 at 9:49 am #5888
I posted a question about the center to center fork spacing on the advrider forum and got a response that its 84mm
Attachments:August 21, 2014 at 10:03 am #5889
On your model, how are the instruments attached?
On mine there is a steel bracket that has rubber mounts that are attached underneath to the front riser studs, and also to the two smaller 6mm hole near the stanchions.
On the modified top plate the steering neck hole is moved closer to the centre line of the stanchions, and so the position of the riser holes has to move forward as well.
We also need to work out how far to move that position so we need to check out a few more things.
Measure distance from under the top plate down the stanchion to the centre of the clamp on the lower yoke.
Measure from the centre of the lower fork clam down the stanchion to the wheel spindle. Than gives us the ratio of how far the spindle moves forward in relation to the distance that the top of the fork moves back.
Also check and measure your wheel base centre to centre. Do all of these measurements with the weight on the wheels. We can check for fork spring sag. ( do you have spacers under the fork nuts on top of the springs?) If so what length are they? Are the springs new or old? Then you need to decide what fork rake you want and whether there is going to be tank clearance lock to lock, and that your instruments will still fit etc.
Make sure that your steering head bearings are good and preload them as per the manual that is very important of steering wobble will occur. The same thing happens with too much fork sag, as this shortens the wheel base and increases trail.
CheersAugust 22, 2014 at 9:50 am #5890
My instruments attach the same way as yours do.
At the moment I’d be keen to just try a 3 degree one, as it is I don’t think I am going to be able to ride the bike as the steering is so heavy and I’m not able to pop out and measure the bike at a moments notice. The forks are going to need some work stiffening them up, I’ve already ascertained that they are too soft but if I’ve any hope of taking it to cold kiwi I need to get something sorted now. There’s plenty of space lock to lock etc and the existing riders holes show i have plenty of room moving the instruments in either direction and still being able to mount them.
Basically anything is going to be an improvement.August 22, 2014 at 11:42 am #5891
OK I can make a 3 degree one for your staunchion size, but with only the rear riser holes at 8mm and the two smaller 6mm bracket holes. The front will be straight as in my original design as it will be stronger. The plate will have a 3 Degree set in it to allow the fork tubes to butt up to the underside. Material will be 6mm Stainless steel, its worth paying another $25 for the better material. I will email you with bank details, please reply with delivery address, and all being well I can courier it to you on Monday. I will include some instructions on the best way to fit it.
Note: stiffening the forks is easy, mine had 25mm spacers on top of the fork springs, I just replaced them with 50mm long spacers made from pipe.
CheersSeptember 1, 2014 at 9:52 am #5896
Woohoo, I’ve ridden it!
I only got to 10km/h down the street in the rain but it goes.
I’ve been working on things every night this week as I’ve struck lots of little problems with the bike, bung fuel filters, electrical issues, only firing on one cylinder even with new air filter, spark plugs and fuel lines, float bowl gasket failures and all sorts of other things.
The bike got a wof this morning as a solo and tonight has the sidecar attached. It had headshake at low speed and pulled to the left a bit but I haven’t got Corimans’ top plate on yet, that’s tomorrow nights project.September 1, 2014 at 9:09 pm #5898September 4, 2014 at 4:27 am #5901
I’ve run the sidecar around town for the past few days, commuting to work, taking the kids to school etc and while it’s running well I haven’t got the alignment to a point where I am happy on attempting a 250km trip to the Cold Kiwi on it.
Bugger, I’ve been working on it for hours everynight and was stymied a few times due to electrical issues on the bike, it’s so close but at the same time still a mile off.
So I’ll be there, but not on the sidecar unfortunately.September 5, 2014 at 1:43 am #5904
Rank: 50cc Rider
Hey, if you need a hand with setup or anything there are a few of us in Hams and bouncing ideas off us may help?
ShaneSeptember 9, 2014 at 7:21 am #5908
All help is appreciated. I’m a bit stuck at the moment.
We could have a bit of a get togetherSeptember 10, 2014 at 4:00 am #5909
Rank: 50cc Rider
Well I’m at 8 Piwakawaka Court, Rototuna. 0211830462 / 07 2100083 give me a yell or just pop around anytime.
ShaneSeptember 13, 2014 at 8:42 am #5911
Cheers. I’m pretty busy at the moment with work/kids etc but will try and Tee something up soon.September 26, 2014 at 7:56 am #5919
Not really any updates at the moment, I’ve been commuting to work several times per week and the alignment is miles out. Once Xmas is over I’ll pull it apart and reset everything.
I did take it to the Boyd’s Motorcycles BMW VIP evening a few nights ago.
Attachments:September 30, 2014 at 7:35 am #5922
I pulled the chair off yesterday and prompted got called back into work on my day of leave.
So tonight I bolted it back up again and so far it feels a bit better, though I’ve only taken it up and down the street so far, it is pulling to the right a bit where before it was pulling left.
The inside rear corner isn’t quite level either and due to the way the arms are I’m not quite sure on how to remedy that at this stage.
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