I acquired a Velorex 562 last year which I am looking to hook up to my DR650.
Given that the DR650 isn’t designed for a sidecar, and is not a solid bike it needs a subframe to mount the sidecar to. We’ve done some measuring up and have a design in mind
I have some of the arms required but didn’t have a swan neck or any brackets for the bike end of things. I started looking for a supplier of just the parts I need and found one in the UK but then I found a supplier on Ebay in Germany who could supply a whole kit for less than the cost of the parts I needed.
My sidecar project is taking a turn, instead of the DR the sidecar is now going to be hooked up to a 1986 BMW R80 TIC. The TIC model is ex MOT (Ministry of Transport) though this bike has had a number of changes since it left the Police force.
I picked up the new tug this afternoon. At the moment it’s sitting in the garage on the battery charger to see if the battery has any life left in it.
The lower part of the fairing at least will have to go to get the sidecar arms on. I suspect the whole lot will go as the stock bars are very narrow and low
and I’d like higher and wider bars, which I don’t think will fit behind the fairing
I spent a little time on the bike last night. It’s been sitting for ~6 months and is an oldish bike so needs a little attention here and there.
First job was the get the clutch working as the cable wouldn’t pull in properly. This turned out to be 2 issues, the first was that the clutch cable pulls a lever at the rear of the gearbox which in turn engages a small pushrod into the gearbox. The pushrod had partially frozen but the act of loosening the gearbox lever to remove the cable released the pushrod so that was an easy fix, the 2nd issue was that the bike has heated grips and the brake lever was fouling on the grip where the electric cable entered the grip, this was resolved by spinning the grip about 15 degrees.
The BMW RS fairing fitted to my bike isn’t what was originally fitted from the factory and gets in the way of mounting a subframe for the sidecar so the lower part at least had to come off.
The bike also has a dodgy starter, but it wasn’t certain whether it was the starter motor or wiring issues causing that.
To top things off the previous owner is overseas doing a RTW trip and I did the deal for this bike via his parents and it seems I was supplied with the wrong set of keys. That’s going to be sorted out but in the meantime I had no way of starting switching the bike to do any testing.
Today I managed to get the fairing lowers off, unbolt the starter motor, and hotwire the ignition so that I could test all the electrics and the starter out. It appears it is the starter that’s at fault so I will get a new one ordered. There’s no NZ supplier so it will be coming from the USA.
Here’s the bikes current state, lower fairings off, starter unbolted, airbox unbolted to allow access to the starter bolts, and the ignition hotwired.
Here’s how it looks currently next to the sidecar. Whether the rest of the fairing stays or goes is uncertain at present, though I am leaning towards removing it all.
Still to do: (this list may change as time progresses)
Get a new starter motor
Get the right keys
Possibly get a new battery
Get a new exhaust pipe
Wire brush & paint exhaust headers
Build a subframe for the sidecar
Attach sidecar to subframe
Build a wiring loom for sidecar lights
Get sidecar dialled in
Ride it!
Starter Motor and Horn arrived today! plus a bonus caliper/measuring whatsit.
Got the new starter fitted today but it seems the battery doesn’t have enough oomph to turn it over. I also re-wired the ignition so I can run the bike on Park seeing as the keys I’ve got won’t turn the switch any further.
Following that was a bit of a garage tidying session, I can actually get to all of the bikes now.
The camera didn’t have a wide enough lens to capture the sidecar as well
Woohoo! the BMW runs, though it took several minutes of being hooked up to the car battery with the car running to get enough oomph to turn it over, and as it was the first time it had been started in a while it took a bit of encouragement.
Now that I know the starter is all sorted I can reassemble the airbox and all the other stuff that had to be removed to get to it and that will take things one step closer.
The new air filter, airbox and battery are installed, however the bike runs worse than a 3 legged dog. It sounds like the timing is WAY out so it looks like I’m on the hunt for a timing light to sort that.
Woohoo! it lives.
I spent a couple of hours on the bike today, pulled all the jets out of both carbs and gave them a blowout. They were a bit dirty but no blockages.
After that I found that the left fuel filter was clogged so fuel wasn’t getting into that cylinder. Once another length of hose long enough to go from the tank to the carb was used the bike fired up. The bike is still running rough at idle, but is now revving smoothly off idle.
Working on the bike again tonight, I had it idling sweet….. for about 30 seconds. Then it dropped to one cylinder. I suspect like the other side the fuel filter might be blocked so I’ll have to find some more fuel hose to replace whats there and see how it goes.
So close to having the bike running……!
So the R80 was delivered to my brother in law last night to start on the subframe build, we are taking a few ideas of Coriman’s build and have most of it figured out, the trip over wasn’t without it’s issues however.
I fitted new fuel filters before the ride and it turns out the filters don’t flow enough to allow the motor to run properly, once the float bowls empty the motor starves and if the revs drop the motor will stall. Wait a few seconds for the float bowls to refill and it runs sweet again.
The fuel line is 1/4inch which equals 6.35mm and fits the tank outlet and the carb inlets fine. The filters have 6mm ends which equals .236inch so a very slight amount smaller but obviously it makes a big difference.
Even worse was that 3/4’s of the way a nut vibrated loose on the right valve cover and oil spewed everywhere, all over my right boot and down the entire left side of the bike.
Last nights ride also confirmed my thoughts that the bars will have to go for wider more upright ones with risers, which will require removing the fairing also. The riding position is just too cramped and needs to be a lot more upright for me.
So…lots of things to do still.
Measuring up where and how everything is going to sit, with Aaron holding the bike level
I really like the look of the RS fairing, but i’m pretty sure it won’t fit higher wider bars behind it.
Things are happening
Over to the brother in laws again today for some more work on the bike
Looking very naked
New higher and wider handlebars half fitted. It took much longer than expected as I had to re route a lot of cabling
Still to do: (this list may change as time progresses)
Get a new starter motor – (Arrived 25/05)
Get new Horn – (Arrived 25/05)
Get the right keys
Possibly get a new battery (done)
Get a new exhaust pipe (Not required now)
Wire brush & paint exhaust headers (Dependant on getting exhaust spanner)
Get exhaust spanner (Organised)
Build a subframe for the sidecar (in progress)
Attach sidecar to subframe
Build a wiring loom for sidecar lights
Get sidecar dialled in
Ride it!
More work on the bike today, I finished mounting the new handlebars and we lined up the bike and chair. My brother in law Roger has made most of the subframe, though it’s not fitted in the pics below. It’s really only the upper rear mount that needs sorting out now.
More pics, the front subframe being mocked up
and taking a leaf out of Coriman’s book, 10mm plate for the side
More pics
Front part of subframe fitted
Front upper mount closeup
Front lower mount
Looking down towards front mounts
and more
Center support
Sub frame attached to center support
Frame for upper rear mount
So it turns out I have a custom top fork clamp, which means my headlight ears won’t fit as the custom clamp is significantly thicker than the stock one.
Coriman may be able to make a replacement, if my measurements are the same as his earlier twin shock top yoke.
Steering Stem – 27.51mm measured at the thread of the steering stem, Steering stem hole 33mm as the stem nut has a ridge that fits into the hole in the yoke that locates everything.
Fork staunchion thread -25.49mm measured at the thread at the top of the staunchion. My largest adjustable wrench wasn’t quite big enough to get the nut undone.
For Coriman
The original top clamp was this
http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R%20Series%202%20valve%20Twin&bikeref=R90-6
TOP YOKE 1985 ON TWINS (NOT PARALEVERS)
BMW Part No. 31 42 1 452 135
The steering stem hole is 33mm, the staunchions are listed as 38mm and we measured the staunchions on my bike with a set of digital verniers as 38.5mm, with the hole being 38mm
The nut at the top of the fork is this. The total height of the nut is 12mm with 8mm of that being the hex section and 4mm being the inset section.
STANCHION NUT 40mm (FITS ON TOP OF SPRING RETAINER UNDER CAP 29003) 10/85 ON 2V TWINS.
BMW Part No. 31 42 1 454 959
There are still a few things to sort out with your fork yokes.
The stock plate top yoke is held by 3 points.
The steering stem nut spigot at 33mm with matching hole in yoke.
The fork stantiions should be larger than the corresponding holes in the top yoke, since the fork nuts draw the stauntion up to the the yoke but not through it.
They are located by the fork nut spigots, under the hex. What diameter are they? because that is what dictated the size of the hole in the yoke not the stauntion size. Unlike your aftermarket yoke.
Also the distance between centres is critical?
That’s fork stauntion centres and also centreline of fork tops offset to centreline of steering stem.
Also there are several holes for handlebar risers and instrument brackets etc. They all need to be identified and located by measurement from a datum . Diameter of hole need to be specified etc. in a working drawing.
The distance from fork top to centre of bottom yoke as well as wheel spindle to lower yoke centre. The reason for all this is that I cannot assume that your forks and yokes are the same as mine, as indeed they are not. I can see from your pictures that the bottom yoke is much heavier than mine, so it is possible tha they may have to be relieved at 3 degrees to accomodate the new fork angle. Its not quite as simple as a bolt on part, and not to be rushed into.
With your set up what wheel track rear wheel centre to sidecar wheel centre are you using? Also what sidecar wheel lead have you chosen?
These two things effect the steering effort required.
Think I’ll just have to get a stock clamp at the moment and try and ride it as is. I don’t have easy access to the bike to strip it all down and measure up in the next week or so to have a yoke made up before Cold Kiwi.
More progress
More work on the bike last night, the front end came out and gaiters, headlight ears and headlight shell, and a stock top plate were all installed. It’s starting to look like a bike now
A pile of random top plate measurements for Coriman
more
last one
I have done a rough hand sketch from your measurements, of what your stock plate looks like. The curves are not accurate. The main thing is to establish some datum lines and work off those. with fork alignment being critical the centre lines have to be established.I have had to make a few assumptions from your pictures and measurements. Your stock fork offset is the same as mine ie. 40mm.
I assume your riser holes are 32mm centres and 80mm apart left to right. Your stock top plate has more holes than mine. yours 10 holes mine 6 holes.
Question: which holes do you not use with your setup?
I will scan and email you my rough drawing then we can talk about the new yoke plate.
Thanks
For the bar risers I am using the 1st and 3rd holes, e.g. the holes closest to the steering stem and the 3rd holes up so that the bars are closer to me, the smaller holes between the riser holes and the fork holes are not being used.
I’ll have a look at your pic and get some more details. If I’m lucky the sidecar will be back at my place this weekend to do some wiring etc on it and get the toe in etc set. I pushed the bike around the garage at the sisters the other day and was surprised at how heavy the steering was.
I posted a question about the center to center fork spacing on the advrider forum and got a response that its 84mm
On your model, how are the instruments attached?
On mine there is a steel bracket that has rubber mounts that are attached underneath to the front riser studs, and also to the two smaller 6mm hole near the stanchions.
On the modified top plate the steering neck hole is moved closer to the centre line of the stanchions, and so the position of the riser holes has to move forward as well.
We also need to work out how far to move that position so we need to check out a few more things.
Measure distance from under the top plate down the stanchion to the centre of the clamp on the lower yoke.
Measure from the centre of the lower fork clam down the stanchion to the wheel spindle. Than gives us the ratio of how far the spindle moves forward in relation to the distance that the top of the fork moves back.
Also check and measure your wheel base centre to centre. Do all of these measurements with the weight on the wheels. We can check for fork spring sag. ( do you have spacers under the fork nuts on top of the springs?) If so what length are they? Are the springs new or old? Then you need to decide what fork rake you want and whether there is going to be tank clearance lock to lock, and that your instruments will still fit etc.
Make sure that your steering head bearings are good and preload them as per the manual that is very important of steering wobble will occur. The same thing happens with too much fork sag, as this shortens the wheel base and increases trail.
Cheers
My instruments attach the same way as yours do.
At the moment I’d be keen to just try a 3 degree one, as it is I don’t think I am going to be able to ride the bike as the steering is so heavy and I’m not able to pop out and measure the bike at a moments notice. The forks are going to need some work stiffening them up, I’ve already ascertained that they are too soft but if I’ve any hope of taking it to cold kiwi I need to get something sorted now. There’s plenty of space lock to lock etc and the existing riders holes show i have plenty of room moving the instruments in either direction and still being able to mount them.
Basically anything is going to be an improvement.
OK I can make a 3 degree one for your staunchion size, but with only the rear riser holes at 8mm and the two smaller 6mm bracket holes. The front will be straight as in my original design as it will be stronger. The plate will have a 3 Degree set in it to allow the fork tubes to butt up to the underside. Material will be 6mm Stainless steel, its worth paying another $25 for the better material. I will email you with bank details, please reply with delivery address, and all being well I can courier it to you on Monday. I will include some instructions on the best way to fit it.
Note: stiffening the forks is easy, mine had 25mm spacers on top of the fork springs, I just replaced them with 50mm long spacers made from pipe.
Cheers
Woohoo, I’ve ridden it!
I only got to 10km/h down the street in the rain but it goes.
I’ve been working on things every night this week as I’ve struck lots of little problems with the bike, bung fuel filters, electrical issues, only firing on one cylinder even with new air filter, spark plugs and fuel lines, float bowl gasket failures and all sorts of other things.
The bike got a wof this morning as a solo and tonight has the sidecar attached. It had headshake at low speed and pulled to the left a bit but I haven’t got Corimans’ top plate on yet, that’s tomorrow nights project.
I’ve run the sidecar around town for the past few days, commuting to work, taking the kids to school etc and while it’s running well I haven’t got the alignment to a point where I am happy on attempting a 250km trip to the Cold Kiwi on it.
Bugger, I’ve been working on it for hours everynight and was stymied a few times due to electrical issues on the bike, it’s so close but at the same time still a mile off.
So I’ll be there, but not on the sidecar unfortunately.
Hey, if you need a hand with setup or anything there are a few of us in Hams and bouncing ideas off us may help?
Shane
All help is appreciated. I’m a bit stuck at the moment.
We could have a bit of a get together
Well I’m at 8 Piwakawaka Court, Rototuna. 0211830462 / 07 2100083 give me a yell or just pop around anytime.
Shane
Cheers. I’m pretty busy at the moment with work/kids etc but will try and Tee something up soon.
Not really any updates at the moment, I’ve been commuting to work several times per week and the alignment is miles out. Once Xmas is over I’ll pull it apart and reset everything.
I did take it to the Boyd’s Motorcycles BMW VIP evening a few nights ago.
I pulled the chair off yesterday and prompted got called back into work on my day of leave.
So tonight I bolted it back up again and so far it feels a bit better, though I’ve only taken it up and down the street so far, it is pulling to the right a bit where before it was pulling left.
The inside rear corner isn’t quite level either and due to the way the arms are I’m not quite sure on how to remedy that at this stage.
So my changes didn’t the handling any better afterall, just bad in different ways.
So what is you main issue with how it rides? I tend to make one change at a time to remedy the main problem and test ride between changes. If you want a second set of eyes I’m happy to pop around for a look.
No real progress at the moment, life has been too busy to revist the setup.
I have been taking the daughter to school in it a bit though, she loves it
So I haven’t updated in a while, the sidecar is getting a fair bit of use and we took it for our first overnight trip over the New Year break to Tauranga and back.
I still need to do some suspension work but it’s running fairly well, a bit of tuning has also improved the fuel economy by about 20%.
In Matamata with my favorite monkey.
I’ve been taking the sidecar to work each day where it’s been parked in a bike park in central Hamilton, yesterday I come back to it at 5pm and find this on the seat.
It says: “To Hogwarts Hagrid… Harry Potter :)”
Took the sidecar down for it’s WOF today, it needs a rear tyre, which I have a spare of, and it needs bar ends.
I have a set of moto x bars on it that are open at the ends and either the grips need to encase the ends of the bars, or you have to have bar ends/weights fitted.